Henrietta StratonDiscover Burgundy. Domaine Jean-Marie Bouzereau - for 10 generations in Meursault
Walking around Meursault you'll see many indicators to Bouzereau estates :) Not all of them belong to Jean-Marie, of course, but all are interconnected. You can imagine how many heirs were 'produced' in 10 generations and how many times vineyards were split :))) Lots of relatives around, no chance for privacy!
Jean-Marie has 9 ha in Meursault, Volnay, Puligny-Montrachet, Pommard and Beaune. And besides harvest times, it's only him and other two full time employees.
No added yeast or bacteria, little to zero filtration, and, most importantly, no rush. Jean-Marie has a lot on his shoulders but sorts it out in a classy French way with a beret on his head.
For example, he still has some barrels from the last year that are slowly-slowly going through malolactic fermentation. All from the same vineyard, while others were done with it in March. No problem! Let them take their time. Another year the must from one of the vineyards just didn't go to malolactic. Do you think Jean-Marie added bacteria? No way! Even better. That year was hot, there is not much acidity to soften so let the malic acid stay.
I felt like he has no problems at all, whatever Mother Nature brings him - everything is welcome!
Then we talked about his favourite style of Meursault, as I was very surprised to taste extremely fresh, although oaked Chardonnay. Jean-Marie said that there was a trend some 10-20 years ago that led to overwhelmed by oak Meursault. Some producers were using 100% of new oak, ageing for even 18 months. But when he took over the winery some 20 years ago he didn't want to be led by any trend (as trends always come and go). As a result, for his Meursault he uses 10-30 % new oak depending on vintage and appellation. Lots of crisp acidity that makes it difficult to detect not only oak, but even malolactic. Now, as world turned more towards light bodied wines, his Meursault is more trendy.
Meursault wine tasting at Domaine Jean-Marie Bouzereau
Meursault 2017 - a blend of several small vineyards, still very young wine. Its' freshness results in very early harvest in August, as 2017 was really hot. A perfect wine to drink soon after bottling, bone dry with high acidity, not too fat or rich, thus great for summer refreshments! Meursault les Narvaux 2017 - single vineyard from the village appellation, situated on the top of the hill, a very rocky place with shallow soil and freshness that comes from the forest. Very different from the previous wine, more mineral and stony, has more tension. You can feel how hard working those vine roots are to get nutrients. Meursault 1er Cru Charmes 2017 - a classical Meursault, if what you look for is opulence of aromas and a rich texture. Ripe and very sweet on the nose, lots of melon, mango, peach, but (and that is the beauty of Burgundy) once you taste it it's bone-dry, no residual sugar whatsoever. Meursault 1er Cru Goutte D'Or 2017 - a much more 'straight' wine with less intensity on the nose. Now you have to push your sensors harder to feel that pineapple, white flowers, vanilla and a hint of butter. Once you take a sip - it turns out to be a less acidic, more comfortable in mouth wine. Meursault 1er Cru Poruzot 2015 - Jean-Marie said it's more of a winter wine. In fact, all freshness and acidity is still very high for a less accustomed to Meursault person :)) But the texture already developed with the years to a more nutty, creamy, rich wine. It's now a serious wine, that is not just for summer heat waves. ****
Such a beautiful part of Burgundy, such a beautiful part of the world, where people understood that what Nature gives is not a misfortune that you have to modify using technology. It's just takes some wisdom to accept it with gratitude and let it express itself into something beautiful. Years differ, there are generous and difficult vintages. But if hail storm didn't kill 100% of your harvest, it means that there is still a high chance that those remaining grapes will produce a very special wine. Take it and be grateful. Join me on my upcoming wine tours to France - off-the-radar appellations, great value for money wines all produced in harmony with nature by small, family run estates.