Henrietta StratonDiscover Burgundy. Domaine Jean-Marie Bouzereau - for 10 generations in Meursault
Walking around Meursault you'll see many indicators to Bouzereau estates :) Not all of them belong to Jean-Marie, of course, but all are interconnected. You can imagine how many heirs were 'produced' in 10 generations and how many times vineyards were split :))) Lots of relatives around, no chance for privacy!
Jean-Marie has 9 ha in Meursault, Volnay, Puligny-Montrachet, Pommard and Beaune. And besides harvest times, it's only him and other two full time employees.
No added yeast or bacteria, little to zero filtration, and, most importantly, no rush. Jean-Marie has a lot on his shoulders but sorts it out in a classy French way with a beret on his head.
For example, he still has some barrels from the last year that are slowly-slowly going through malolactic fermentation. All from the same vineyard, while others were done with it in March. No problem! Let them take their time. Another year the must from one of the vineyards just didn't go to malolactic. Do you think Jean-Marie added bacteria? No way! Even better. That year was hot, there is not much acidity to soften so let the malic acid stay.
I felt like he has no problems at all, whatever Mother Nature brings him - everything is welcome!
Then we talked about his favourite style of Meursault, as I was very surprised to taste extremely fresh, although oaked Chardonnay. Jean-Marie said that there was a trend some 10-20 years ago that led to overwhelmed by oak Meursault. Some producers were using 100% of new oak, ageing for even 18 months. But when he took over the winery some 20 years ago he didn't want to be led by any trend (as trends always come and go). As a result, for his Meursault he uses 10-30 % new oak depending on vintage and appellation. Lots of crisp acidity that makes it difficult to detect not only oak, but even malolactic. Now, as world turned more towards light bodied wines, his Meursault is more trendy.